• James


Probably one of the most out of the way islands in Croatia. A good little spot for a long stay & good swimming. Said to be positioned on important laylines. There is a small meditation group led by a local landowner who takes sessions and invited me on a chance encounter. Nice moment. Cool spring water bubbling up into the otherwise warm Adriatic water. Fine walks through the dense forest (70% forested) & would be more but for a big fire in recent years. Regularly free diving to 18 metres and swimming 4 to 8 kilometres. Sadly, as is a plague of the med, lots of little plastics and bigger groupings - you always have to search favoured spots with wind direction and current. Those challenges aside which are the subject of diferent piece - there reamins still excellent foraging on land. My landlady was a supreme knowledge and told me there were some potent medicinal herbs particular to the island and in one particular spot; due to the many unique aspects, including the soil, but also the movement of sunlight. Each plant we picked harnessing different properties - so I tried to put to memory which was for the morning teapot and which for the evening on!. Wild oregano was easy for me on return, the others not so! Lots organic tomatoes in this same region. I had fine foraging days - and it was wonderful watching such a character move through the land with such focus and intent. In the water I swam following turtles, octupus to; sadly not dolphins, not for lack of keeping ones eyes and hears peeled. Everyday I walked to a remote a lighthouse and watched a pair of fine falcons fly in and out of their cliff edge nest - like a symphony of movement. Magic. I was there when Kit passed away. I had a pomegranate and fig tree in the garden and enjoyed their gifts as they conveniently in turn ripened. Heavy tropicasl rains and lightening storms were a great joy to watch in the early autumn. The most unlikely location for undercover policeman; but it had been cut off as hiding spot for Tito and then later military personel up until the mid nineties after the Bosian war. Until the islanders became accostumed to my presence, I was searched and interragated a couple of times, under suspicion of being a Jewel thief! I began the stay at the one hotel on the island, Hotel Solitudo, where I met an interesting Ukranian couple. I ended my stay and spent the main part (2 months) with a lovely fishing family. A week in the one village inbetween.

7 views0 comments

Recent Posts

See All